Winter is one of my favorite times of year here in Hawaiʻi, and contrary to what many people believe, we do have seasons. Late fall is when the humpback whales first show up, it’s when we often get snow on our three tallest volcanoes (Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and Haleakalā), and the huge winter swells begin to roll in on our north and west facing shores. If you have never witnessed giant surf in real life, I’m hoping you got a taste of it with the Paris Olympics at Teahupoʻo in Tahiti. There is nothing more awe inspiring than watching a towering wall of blue unleash its full force on the reef, or seeing the entire horizon rear up in lines of crashing white water as far as the eye can see. You can feel the reverberations in your bones. So in honor of surf season in the northern hemisphere, I thought it would be fun to share seven books that feature surfing, four fiction and three non-fiction. All are sure to fascinate, enlighten and transport you, and maybe even make you want to wax up that board and get out there, whether it be Hawaiʻi or California or somewhere more exotic. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan This mesmerizing coming of age won the Pulitzer, and with good reason. A compelling look at one man’s life spent chasing waves around the world, while also unlocking the meaning of life through thoughtful examination. If you want to understand the mind of a surfer and experience all manner of waves and old-school adventure, this is a must. California Golden by Melanie Benjamin Combine vibrant 60s surf culture with sisterhood and family dynamics to weave a rich and heartbreaking tale. Definitely more character driven, it’s a poignant tale of women breaking the mold and navigating life one surfboard at a time. Love the California vibes. The Wave by Susan Casey Susan is one of my favorite writers and I love all of her books and the way she completely immerses herself in the world of whatever she is writing about. The Wave takes us on an fascinating journey, toggling between wave science & history, stories of rogue waves around the world, and a close up look at legendary waterman Laird Hamilton & friends on Maui, and their pursuit of giants. Even though this is non-fiction, it reads like a page turner. Malibu Rising by Taylor Jenkins Reid This NYT Bestseller has over 1 million ratings on Goodreads. Definitely for those who prefer books with a lot of glitz and drama. In typical TJR fashion, she draws you in with her vividly drawn characters (the four famous Riva siblings, who all surf) and a twisty plot. It all happens in the span of 24 hours leading up to and including an end of summer bash (and also with flashbacks to the past), where everything spins out of control and the house goes up in flames. Surf is not the main focus in this novel, but we do get to paddle out and catch a few waves. Swell by Liz Clark I spent a little time with Patagonia ambassador Liz Clark on the north shore years ago, and was impressed by her unwavering passion for the ocean, and her surfing prowess. I’m a sucker for stories in which people take a different path and follow their dreams. “Overflowing with wild waves and constant challenges, at the whim of the weather, of relationships sweet and sour, of nature's marvels and colorful cultures, Liz captures her voyage in gripping detail in this memoir, sharing tales of sailing in high seas, of solitude and surprises, of finding connection to the earth and commitment to living in harmony with it.” The California Dreamers by Amy Mason Doan This book releases in April of 2025, and I’m so excited to read it! I read Amy’s first novel, The Summer List, and adored it. She has such a way of writing characters to root for. If you like family secrets and van life, this one is for you. “It’s 1980s California, and everyone’s dreaming of the endless summer: sun-drenched beaches, infinite waves, and most of all, beautiful, beautiful freedom. For the Merrick siblings, this idyllic vision is their reality, as they travel up and down the coast with their parents in a van year-round, surfing and swimming their days away. But when a photographer secretly snaps a stunning photo of the family with their boards in the sand, and the image ripples across the country, the only life they’ve ever known is put at risk.” Sign me up. The Maui Effect by Sara Ackerman I’ve always wanted to write a book set on Maui, and when I stumbled upon the idea of an opposites attract love story, I thought it would be the perfect backdrop. Dane is a big wave surfer always on the hunt for the ultimate ride. When he meets ‘Iwa he suddenly glimpses something even greater, but just out of reach, because ʻIwa has one unbreakable rule: never date a surfer. As a field biologist, her life is spent high in the Maui rainforest, while his is chasing giant swells around the globe. In between these pages you will find off-the-beaten-path adventure, swoony romance, and characters full of heart. They say opposites attract, but are they meant to last? Read to find out.
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Aloha files.In the spirit of spreading aloha, Sara shares her favorite uplifting and inspiring finds. Maybe it's a book or podcast, or maybe it's a new adventure or film that is too good not to pass along. Archives
January 2025
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